abbazia di monte oliveto maggiore
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The scenery on the way to this monastery is stunning, and worth it just for that. The frescoes on the walls here are wonderful and if you look closely you will see all sorts of interesting characters you would not think of finding in such a sitting. I was disappointed that winter tourists were not catered for. The library was closed as was the cellar. The cellar is only open on Saturday and Sundays during the winter months. So the only places open to us was the section showing the frescoes, the inside of the church and the pharmacy selling rather expensive herbal remedies, and books. However, because it was just a nice trip out, I will go back and make a visit during the summer when perhaps more will be available to the public.It is just a pity that Italy seems to shut down during the winter and ignores the fact that many tourists take advantage of this time of year for fewer crowds and cheaper prices.
We arrived by bike and were surprised to see the Abbey surrounded by Porsches. I thought to myself, this is a very wealthy abbey indeed. I turns our it was a stop for the Porsche Club tour. It was clearly a wealthy abbey the size and the grounds can attest to that. For us the highlight were the murals in the cloister, they are amazing and enthralling. The details of life in those days the features of so many different characters, the horrors that await those who fall from grace, we spent a good hour with these and were so surprised by the hordes who walked past without glancing on their way to see the church. The church is great but the murals are the star attraction. Despite seeing visitors in shorts, we were asked to put a cloth around out bike shorts. It was amusing to us looking at the near nudity and tight fitting cloths in the murals the members of the order look upon daily.
This was our second visit to Monte Olveto Maggiore. The most impressive to me were the magnificent frescoes in the cloisters illustrating the life of St. Benedict by Il Sodoma. Also of interest were the Della Robbia porcelain pieces. This Abbey was the supposed setting for the novel "In the Name of the Rose' by Umberto Ecco although the movie was filmed at a different setting. Be sure to time your visit with the understanding that it is closed for several hours after noon.
The monastery was creates in the 13th century as a S Benedictine order. It is a functioning monastery; hence opening hours are limited from 9-12 and from 15-17 (check the website). Entrance is free. Visitors can enter the church, the library, the courtyard with beautiful frescoes, the museum and the pharmacy. The library is an impressive architectural structure/ pillars that stand on a floor that is in fact the ceiling of the refectory! A delicate structure that holds due to a slight sideways inclination of the pillars that allows the pressure to push towards the side rather than downward. The museum has fine paintings. The available guide, Mr Dino Benincasa, gives excellent detailed explanations. At the monastery shop one can buy the herbal products produced by the monks. The wine cellar sells wine, olive oil and other food grown on the property. Guests are welcomeovernight in the foresteria. On weekdays at 6:15pm, on Sundays at 11am Gregorian messes are sung.
We visited the monastery at 6pm on a Monday afternoon in late September at the recommendation of our villa concierge. The description of a special, peaceful place that raises goose bumps was spot on. After driving to Tuscany from the Amalfi Coast that day, the tranquility was exactly what we needed to destress and embrace the slower Tuscan pace. After an informative wine tasting in the cellar with Lucca of reds produced by the resident monks, we were greeted by chanting from inside the church. Sun setting, birds chirping, monks singing, a leisurely stroll through the wooded paths with only a handful of fellow visitors certainly raised the goose bumps.
The church is worth a look (particularly the outstanding inlaid wood in the choir), but the real attraction is the stunning set of frescoes by Sodoma. They are superb. If you tour here, be sure you have either a knowledgeable guide or at least a guidebook. The frescoes would be worth looking at just as artwork, but it's so much more enjoyable if you know the back-story on the Sodoma and what his paintings say.
The monastery is perched on a delightful hilltop and includes a number of attractive buildings and a shop with very highly priced local olive oil and other produce. You pay by the hour for the car park and if you arrive in the early afternoon, as we did, then there is no access to the interior of the buildings until later in the afternoon.
Must visit this working monastery. St in wooded ravines and visible from many angles it is a peaceful place full of interest. Has a great cafe at the gatehouse entrance. Church, cloister and library all well worth a look.
We visited on a Sunday in the early afternoon. Beautiful scenery along the drive to the Abbey of Mont Oloveto Maggiore. We parked the car (2 euros for the couple of hours we were there) and walked less than a mile to the main abbey. Along the way we passed lots of local people who we think had maybe been there for church and were now eating at a restaurant and talking. We looked around the grounds and then looked more and finally sat and waited for the abbey to reopen at 3:15 (it had closed at noon). We then toured the inside (all free) and took photos of the many frescos that almost all appeared to be about "Come Benedetto" ("as Benedict"). Very enjoyable visit.
The location of the Abbey is very unique--be prepared to walk down and up hill! A peaceful place, with a set of fantastic frescos. Would not want to visit in the rain! Mass with Gregorian chant available at certain times of the evening might be special, though we missed it.
One of the most beautiful abbeys we visited in Tuscany. You feel the presence of monks, everything is well-kept. Its location is unique, the hike to it is lovely in the shades of trees. The Great Cloister is amazingly furnished with frescos.
Go for the amazingLuca Signorelli and Sodoma fresco's depicting the life of San Benedetto, the library and smell at lunchtime the soupe being prepared for the monks
We'd driven past this monastery on a couple of occasions as we drove through the Crete and eventually decided to go and have a look. So glad we did. This is a functioning monastery, there is no entry fee and what you will see when you get there is the most amazing and complete fresco in the cloister depicting the life of St Benedict plus the Abbey church is spectacular (the choir is beautiful) and so peaceful. You are also able to view the Refectory and Library.Check the opening times as it is not open all day, there is parking and a restaurtant. There is a small shop on site where you can buy local products and religious items.
First, I have to tell you that it is not the easiest place to find (my Garmin GPS could not detect it, but it is on google maps). But it is so worth the adventure through the gorgeous Crete Senesi countryside to find it (the closest town is Chiusure). There is parking on the grounds (you get a ticket when you enter, pay at a machine near the entrance when you are done, then insert the paid ticket in the slot to exit). The Abbey opened for us (they have an excellent website for hours and other information) at 13:00 at a toll of the bells. One must maintain as quiet a demeanor as possible to enter the Cloisters - but it is difficult to not exclaim over the Signorelli and Giovanni Bazzi (Sodoma) frescoes - 35 of them lining the halls, depicting the life of St. Benedict. The monks still maintain an herbal apothecary and run a wonderful shop selling those products plus religious items. Note that the Abbey is at the bottom of a steep hill, accessible by foot down a path or the road.
We did not have enough time here to do it justice and I would have benefit from reading about the history in advance. But the frescos were very nice and incredibly well-preserved. There is a parking lot where you get a ticket as you enter. There's a machine where you validate the ticket and pay as you leave (ticket machine is right at the entrance to the monastery so you can't miss it).